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A Chinese man with sunken cheeks held his 4-year-old granddaughter against the counter at McDonald’s. Her body was jack-knifed over it, so that she could see the Happy Meal menu on the countertop plastic placard. She pointed to different items, perhaps a toy as well, and the 17-year-old Latina girl in the hairnet looked into her face, smiled, and pressed keys on the cash register, taking her order.

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